68RFE Transmission Installation Guide

Installing a remanufactured 68RFE automatic transmission requires more than bolting the unit in place. This guide walks through a professional 68RFE transmission installation workflow — from pre-install diagnostics through cooler service, converter seating, fluid fill, and road-test verification.

> Important: Skipping cooler service, leaving stored transmission codes, or forcing bellhousing bolts can void warranty coverage and cause early failure. Read the full checklist before you start.

1. Connect a scan tool and record all active and pending DTCs. 2. Repair every powertrain code related to the transmission, engine, or driveline before installing the replacement unit. 3. Verify fluid type and capacity for your application; have the correct ATF on hand. 4. Inspect leaks at cooler lines, axle seals, and the output shaft — fix external leaks first.

• Cooler and lines: Flush or replace the transmission cooler circuit. Metal from a failed unit will destroy a reman box if it remains in the loop.
• Flexplate / flywheel: Inspect for cracks, missing balance weights, and correct bolt pattern match to the torque converter.
• Torque converter: Compare the replacement converter to the original; confirm pilot fitment and full engagement on the input shaft.
• Dowel pins: Must be present, clean, and seated — they control alignment.
• Electrical: Check harness connectors, grounds, and speed sensors for corrosion or pulled pins.
• Mounts and driveline: Inspect transmission mounts, U-joints, carrier bearing, and axle splines.

1. Support the engine and transmission safely; remove shift linkage, wiring, and cooler lines. 2. Remove the old unit without damaging cooler fittings or the harness. 3. Compare the replacement transmission to the original (bellhousing, sensors, tail housing, 2WD/4WD configuration). 4. Install the torque converter fully before drawing bellhousing bolts tight — do not use bellhousing bolts to pull the converter into place. 5. Torque bellhousing and mount fasteners to manufacturer specification in the correct sequence. 6. Reconnect cooler lines, fill with the specified fluid, and check for leaks at idle. 7. Run through range selection (Park, Reverse, Drive) before the first road test.

• Diesel applications: verify flexplate runout and torque converter pilot fitment.
• Use the correct ATF+4 fluid spec and confirm line pressure after road test when supported by your scan tool.

• Re-scan and confirm no new codes; compare to your pre-repair list.
• Verify Park hold, Reverse engagement, and forward shifts through all gears.
• Monitor fluid level after the first heat cycle — top off only when hot per spec.
• Listen for converter rattle, line pressure knock, or bearing whine on the test drive.
• Document cooler service, fluid type, and scan results for warranty records.

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Do I have to replace the transmission cooler? After an internal failure, assume the cooler circuit is contaminated. At minimum, flush lines and external cooler; replace non-serviceable in-radiator coolers when required by the remanufacturer.

How do I know the torque converter is fully seated? There should be adequate clearance between the converter and the flexplate before bellhousing bolts are tightened. Spin the converter and confirm it engages the pump drive without binding.

What if my scan tool shows new codes after install? Stop the road test, recheck fluid level, connectors, and range linkage. Clear codes only after the underlying cause is corrected.

Technical concepts in this article were informed by remanufacturer installation guidance, including the Moveras document *68RFE Installation Guide* ([view on Moveras.com](https://moveras.com/Support/Installation_Guides)). Always follow the latest document for your exact unit and application.